Breaking the Base Blonde

May 22, 2009

There is something about blonde hair that turns heads. There are a few different general types of blondes that most colorists come to find in their chair.
1. Bleach blonde/single process blonde/platinum blonde – Personally I’m not a fan. It’s very difficult to make a single process blonde look good. It’s very easy to make a single process blonde look cheap. It’s an unnatural look that is usually cooks the hair. Hair one color doesn’t usually go that light unless you are from Sweeden. It’s also a favorite of the porn stars of San Fernando Valley.
2. Highlighted blonde – lighter pieces are weaved on to a darker base and a new blonde is born. This allows for some dimension and contrast. I think it’s more interesting.
3. The double process blonde – double process is the ultimate in high maintinence. What I mean is this….You color the hair and you also add highlights. Reasons to change the base are (grey coverage, tonal shift, or lightening of the base). If you have a brunette and you do one normal round of highlights, 9 times out of 10 you get a brunette with some highlights. If you take that same girl lighten her base then do highlights you get a BLONDE!
When you quickly lighten a base it’s known as “breaking the base”.

I have an example here of a base break I did on my wife Catherine this week. She is a natural ash tone and light brunette/dark blonde naturally. I slapped on a new base for 20 minutes and as you can see in the photo (taken after base is broken) Her color warms up to a light gold and blonde. If her whole head was this color it would look like a train wreck. Next picture I go over top of the base with a full head of highlights in foils. Her ends were getting a bit too light before she had come in, so I decided to lowlight her as well. I hand painted the lowlights in between the foils by using a putty knife and sliding it down the hairshaft as I painted. In other random areas I used the edge of the tint brush and did a few extra at random where nescessary. Final picture (sorry pictures are posted in reverse order) is the finished blonde. For maintinence she will only need highlights every other time. Next service in 4 weeks I quickly break the base (roots only) and she’s done. Service after that she gets base and highlights.

FYI to all in Los Angeles Im flying back to do four days of hair at Luxelab in Santa Monica June 28-July 1 you can book your appointments now through the receptionists 310-255-9900. I look forward to seeing everyone again.

One more thing!!!!!!!! Feel free to leave a comment at the bottom of the post it seems I have some shy readers.

for more about me visit www.jeffdavidsonhairstylist.com


One comment

  1. You have NO IDEA how I wish I had found you before now! Great blog and if you can cut an color anywhere near as well as you write about it – then I found a new stylist!

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